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  #11  
Old 05-19-2010, 04:08 AM
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I rarely use the car in full auto mode, in Normal its always in too high a gear around town, and Sport just seems too much the other way. However full-auto + sport is good for some mad straightline acceleration

Typically I use the manual shift, with a combination of the gear stick and paddles depending on where my hands are at the time. E.g. its easier when exiting a roundabout to have one hand on the wheel then change up using the gear stick.
When in manual I use Sport mode as I feel its a little quicker off the line than in Normal, but that could be my imagination

I don't go easy on the car and get 21-22mpg (UK gallons)
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2010, 12:48 AM
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I've been wondering about the ASC, I always have mine off even before i turn the car on, It seems to free the car up. I was thinking when is in nessasary to have it on? Maybe when i am pushing hard on back roads with my budys? I tried half of the twisties with it off and it slid around a lot,Then with it on the rear didn't kick out much.
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2010, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuqwik4u View Post
I've been wondering about the ASC, I always have mine off even before i turn the car on, It seems to free the car up. I was thinking when is in nessasary to have it on? Maybe when i am pushing hard on back roads with my budys? I tried half of the twisties with it off and it slid around a lot,Then with it on the rear didn't kick out much.
ASC on = prevent sideway & wheel spin. Best to leave that on for most of the time. If you turn ASC off you can do stuff your tires wont like, ie: drifting.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2012, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ladogaboy View Post
From what I've felt of the car up to this point, I think the driving techniques for it aren't dissimilar from the techniques for driving most other cars.

Normal mode is fine for daily driving. In my opinion, it might even be a bit too aggressive. If the shift points were dropped by 250-500 rpm depending on gear, I believe that the fuel economy would increase substantially.

Sport mode is fun, but completely unnecessary for daily driving. It is also not ideal for racing, but I am glad it is there. It is, for me, a "fun" mode. If I happen to be driving through canyons or up on a mountain road, I might switch it on just for the fun factor. I have to imagine that the higher revs would make it a better choice for uphill climbs (still somewhat tame driving circumstances), though...

The fact that the TC-SST doesn't have super sport mode doesn't bother me at all. If I'm actually racing, I want 100% control of the shifts (even if the super sport in the EVO might shift better than me, I'd rather do it myself).

Braking, as I've seen, works the same as it should work in any other car. The brakes are under-sized and under-performing (mostly due to the weight of the car), but they aren't that bad. The main thing to remember about braking is that it should be done in a straight line. Just make sure that you have done all your braking before you enter a corner, and you should be fine.

E-braking: My question is why? Do you want to kick out the rear? You should have gotten a FR car if that's what you wanted to do. I, personally, would be scared to see what excessive e-braking would do to my beautiful AWC.

Down shifting should work the same as a manual. I haven't mapped out the full rpm curve just yet (I've only had the car for about 1,000 miles), but once you know what the speed to rpm ratios are, you can make a better judgment about when to down shift/up shift. Generally, you down shift when you are decelerating or when you are coasting and you want a sudden burst of speed. When performance driving, I would say that you should be trying to downshift to keep your rpms in the 4-5k range.

Up shifting should be done either: a) when you are driving normally, about the time you start to feel boost come on (between 2 to 2.5k) or b) when you are performance driving, about the time your powerband starts to peter off (depending on the tune and the setup, about 6k).

Auto mode: Great for daily driving and stop and go traffic. Basically, good for all the times you just want to sit back and relax while driving. The Sport mode is also good for spirited, but relaxed driving.

Manual mode: I've used it while daily driving (not a lot), and I've found that it is somewhat effective. I want to mess with it a little more, but right now, I am tracking my fuel economy in Normal mode. After a few tanks of gas, I will switch over to driving exclusively in manual mode to see if I can do better than the computer in terms of fuel economy.

Tarmac: Dry pavement. 90% of your driving, you should be in Tarmac mode.

Gravel: Dirt, gravel or wet pavement. So, when it's raining, switch to Gravel mode.

Snow: Well, snow and ice.

ASC: Active stability control. This is mainly to prevent skidding and to help maintain control in hard braking. The funny thing is (and this could just be psychosomatic), but I feel the difference in the car with ASC off even during normal driving conditions. One thing I will say, this is being turned off when I go to the track.

I think I've covered the last two already. Anyway, these are all based on my experience and are my opinions. They are in no way meant to be authoritative, so if anyone feels like adding to this or correcting me in any places where I have erred from the truth, please do. I come to these boards to learn as well.


one thing ive notice for sure is that when i drive the car manual/normal i get a better milage than uto/normal and i think it has to do with the fact that the trany is trying to guess what you wana do before u do it i drive both freeway and city and i have to say in my experience i prefer driving it on manual... ive seen better mpg number in my situation....
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2012, 02:00 AM
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Accelerating: Light throttle will save gas, heavy throttle will kill gas. Keeping the speed steady will save much more gas than on/off throttle driving conditions such as city/traffic.

Braking: See big post mentioned above ^. However, Brakes on the RA isn't the greatest and bedsides the trans cooler... I would recommend changing the setup up with better Pads/Rotors and Brake Lines+Fluids. Then Save for a BBK (Big Brake Kit)

e-braking: Not gonna lie, I've used this to big the back end of the RA to rotate on some turns... NOT YANK the e-brake but just enough to create some sort of DRAG... Hard to explain...

downshifting: Has the same principles as a manual car does.... Also refer to big post above ^

upshifting: ^ Same as downshifting...... Look at Above Post

Auto mode: I personally only use it.... nvm I never use it.

Manual mode: I always have it in manual mode with ASC off and Sport mode. I recommend the same setup.

Tarmac mode: I leave it in Tarmac mode at all times other than REALLY wet conditions.... NO Tarmac/Gravel/Snow DOES NOT CHANGE power ratio delivery to the wheels.

Gravel Mode: Same as Tarmac but just for Rainy Rainy days or possible slippery roads due to water, snow, or Lastly Dirt.

Snow Mode: Never use it even in the snow I didn't use it but it doesn't help the fact I have NT05's on in the snow lol.... FAIL

ASC: One of the things I first turn off due to the fact it's too pansy for me to leave up based on how I drive my car.... Suspension Work + Grippy Tires = ASC says HELL NO TO TURNS.

Normal Clutch mode: Only used for cruise control while still in Manual. Until there's an override for Manual Sport + Cruise Control... then I'll be forced to use Normal. I also noticed... when I drive in Auto + Normal mode, my trans temp gets hotter...... In this mode, it isn't as quick shifting/aggressive as Sport mode.

Sport Clutch mode: See my previous answer^
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2012, 09:25 AM
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After reading all these different methods and techniques I feel like I'm paying way too much attention to the way I'm driving now, lol.

When I had my traditional manual in my 350Z I just drove by feeling. Now I feel like I'm being super cautious and over thinking the way I'm driving
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2013, 02:49 PM
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I thought that way for while as well. Now, during the work week, i just put it in Manual Normal mode and shift up at 2-2.5k / cruise control everywhere i can (43 mph city and 63 mph hwy)/ coast to stops. This is gaining me 19-20 mpg cty and 27+ Hwy. // +- 23 combined. Much better than the 17 i was getting before.
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Last edited by wemay; 03-05-2013 at 03:31 AM.
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2013, 06:33 PM
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@wemay: Did I read that right? You're getting 43mpg city/ 63mpg highway?

How the fuq?! Explain further.
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2013, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprydation View Post
@wemay: Did I read that right? You're getting 43mpg city/ 63mpg highway?

How the fuq?! Explain further.
Lol... I should clarify. Those figures are mph. Sorry.
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:26 AM
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the world works in metric, who still uses empirical values...jeeze.
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