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  #11  
Old 01-28-2013, 12:03 AM
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AlphaKennyBody AlphaKennyBody is offline
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Why is everyone suggesting "Octane Booster"

You guys new to the scene? Octane booster DO NOT WORK.

There's even been testing to show a LOST of Horsepower running Octane Boosters.

If it's KNOCK with with fuel/timing, Datalog the car and post your findings. If you can AUDIBLY, you might be hearing Rod Knock...

You check to see your oil level? What Weight oil are you running? Record a video and post it up.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:42 AM
A_Rawww A_Rawww is offline
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@alphakennybody My oil level is above the two dots instead of in between and pretty dark brown, not really gritty. and I checked it when it was dead cold. Haven't changed the oil since I got it from Carmax at about 31k and I've put about 1.5k on it in cold weather. And I don't know if the previous owner kept up on maintenance and changed around 30k.

Also Took out the HKS filter and replaced the stock filter.

I can't data log yet because I don't have funds to purchase a Cobb ap till feb1st

I'm gunna go ahead and take it to get an oil change and get a sound clip on the way there.

Also I posted on evoM and got some different feedback here:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/09-rall...nock-help.html
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2013, 11:46 AM
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crak crak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaKennyBody View Post
Why is everyone suggesting "Octane Booster"

You guys new to the scene? Octane booster DO NOT WORK.

There's even been testing to show a LOST of Horsepower running Octane Boosters.

If it's KNOCK with with fuel/timing, Datalog the car and post your findings. If you can AUDIBLY, you might be hearing Rod Knock...

You check to see your oil level? What Weight oil are you running? Record a video and post it up.
I dont mean to be an ass, but im curious. Do you have a link to the testing of the horsepower lost running octane? I wouldnt mind reading the article.
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2013, 01:07 PM
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MikeW-RRE MikeW-RRE is offline
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Ummmm what is missing here is that you only get "knock" (dangerous pre ignition, uncontrolled explosions, too lean, too advanced ignition for the load and conditions) under higher loads.

You are not going to near engine knock driving around normal with the stereo on. If you heard actual knock even with the stereo off under a WOT pull, things are pretty much done. On a Dynapack dyno with no tire noise it takes at least a 6 -9 count of knock to actually hear it _if_ you are listening to it. This noise is just a little single "tink" or series of "tinktinktink".

Now if we are talking about a motor with a knocking noise that is different. If a water pump pulley is loose and rattling, if there is a piece of a spark plug stuck in the top of the piston and hitting the cylinder head, if you have a bad rod bearing that is flopping around on the crankshaft.. that is a knocking noise that you would hear just listening free revving the motor or driving in a parking lot.

If I read correctly this is a recently purchased used car? What is the history on it? Any warranty?

If the car was here at the shop making rattling knocking noises on a free rev we would:

Listen with a stethoscope (or a long screwdriver, touch the srewdriver tip to the motor, listen to the handle) to try to generally locate the noise. Top up in the cylinder head, bottom end, timing chain side.

If abnormal noise up in the head take off the valve cover and have a look.

If in the timing chain area have a look at the visual stretch indicator.

If bottom end, cut open the oil filter and look for bearing debris. If gold flakes that is bearings. If aluminum paste looking then that is the oil pump dying.

If you suspect it is an accessory (water pump, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor) making the noise, you can take off the serpentine belt and run the motor briefly. If the noise goes away then it was something that the serpentine belt was turning.

There is a possibility that something in the transmission is making the noise also. You or someone that knows cars needs to get to the bottom of this as soon as possible. There is only so much the internet can help you here.

Mike W
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  #15  
Old 01-28-2013, 01:46 PM
A_Rawww A_Rawww is offline
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Finally figured it out. Wasn't the engine it was the tires hence the rhythmic sound when I accelerate or brake.
When I plasti-dipped my wheels I didn't have a torque wench or a leverage wrench. One bolt on the left side was lose and was causing the tire to barely move against the bolt causing the knocking sound. Luckily I fixed it before any real damage was done. Thank you to everyone who provided me with help!
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  #16  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:17 PM
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MikeW-RRE MikeW-RRE is offline
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Yep, pre-detonation, rod bearings falling out, wheels falling off... all kinda sounds the same :-P

Mike W
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  #17  
Old 01-28-2013, 07:06 PM
Smeghead Smeghead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeW-RRE View Post
Yep, pre-detonation, rod bearings falling out, wheels falling off... all kinda sounds the same :-P

Mike W
Lmao that made my night
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2013, 01:43 PM
A_Rawww A_Rawww is offline
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Lol you can thank everyone on EvoM and ClubRalliart for always posting their horror stories, for my over-reactiveness.
Plus this is my first car so any abnormal noise I instantly think my sst is gone lol.
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